The Michigan Hemingway Society Presents:
Hemingway-related sites in the
Horton Bay/Walloon Lake/
Petoskey/Harbor Springs Area

Researched and compiled by Ken Marek
Founding Member Michigan Hemingway Society


HORTON BAY:

  1. Greensky Hill Indian Methodist Church-On Old US 31 N. Highway off the Charlevoix-Boyne City Rd. approximately one-and-a-half miles east of US 31. A Michigan Historic Site, this area was (and still is) a sacred place to the Native Americans that Hemingway wrote about in several of the Nick Adams stories, most notably "Indian Camp," "The Doctor and the Doctor's Wife," "Ten Indians," "The Indians Moved Away," and "Fathers and Sons."(1) Prudence Boulton, who may have been the model for the character of Prudence (Prudie) in "Ten Indians," and/or Trudy in "Fathers and Sons," is said to be buried in an unmarked grave at Greensky. (2)
  2. Horton Bay General Store-on the Charlevoix-Boyne City Rd. in the village of Horton Bay. Established in 1876, this store has remained the center of business and social life in the village.(3) Hemingway frequented the store as a boy and a young man. He described it in the story "Up in Michigan," and it seems to be the model for Mr. Packard's store in "The Last Good Country." Hemingway photos and memorabilia are still displayed here.
  3. The Red Fox Inn-Adjacent to the Horton Bay General Store. Built in 1878, this structure was one of the earliest homes in Horton Bay. In 1919 it was converted to a restaurant, and soon became famous for its family-style chicken dinners.(4) John Kotesky, an area farmer who regularly supplied the Inn with fresh vegetables, is remembered for having driven Hemingway and his new bride, Hadley Richardson, from Horton Bay to Walloon Lake as they began their honeymoon.(5) Ernest recalled this drive in "On Writing." The Red Fox Inn is now home to a bookstore that specializes in Hemingway titles and memorabilia.
  4. The Township School-A few hundred yards east of the Horton Bay General Store and just west of the Horton Bay United Methodist Church. The school stands across the road from what was the site of the village blacksmith shop.(6) The school and the blacksmith shop are mentioned in "Up in Michigan," while the blacksmith shop also appears in "The Indians Moved Away."
  5. Pinehurst and Shangri-La-The first two dwellings on the east side of Lake Street as it descends to the bay on Lake Charlevoix. These spacious "cottages" were the heart of the Dilworth Resort in Horton Bay. As a young man, Ernest often bunked in a shed at the back of Pinehurst so he could see his Horton Bay friends and enjoy "Aunty Beth" Dilworth's great cooking.(7) A wedding "breakfast" was held at Pinehurst following Hemingway's marriage to Hadley Richardson in Horton Bay on the afternoon of September 3, 1921.(8) In Ernest's story "Summer People," Nick Adams appears to be staying at the Dilworth's, and "Up in Michigan" refers to "Dillworth's house."
  6. Public access site and boat launch-on Lake Charlevoix at the south end of Lake Street This spot affords an open view of the bay, the woods and beach leading to Ten Mile Point, and the expanse of Lake Charlevoix. Hemingway used this bay and its surroundings as a setting in "The End of Something," "Summer People," "On Writing" and "Up in Michigan." (9)
  7. Horton Creek access #1 - The creek flows under the Charlevoix/Boyne City Road approximately one-half mile west of the village of Horton Bay. As you approach the bridge over the creek, watch for a small sign on the right (north) side of the road marking the Little Traverse Conservancy's Rufus Teesdale Nature Preserve. Turn right into the preserve, pull into the parking area, and follow the footpath to the creek. Hemingway loved to fish for trout on Horton Creek.(10) He refers to it in "The End of Something," "The Indians Moved Away" and "On Writing," and it appears to be the model for the creek mentioned repeatedly in "Summer People" and in the early pages of "The Last Good Country." Also, in the "fictional memoir" True at First Light, Hemingway describes his vivid memories of fishing at the cider mill that was located on Horton Creek downstream from the Charlevoix/Boyne City Road in an area that is now private property and inaccessible to the public.
  8. The Charles Farm and Schulz Nature Preserve A right turn (west) out of the Teesdale Preserve takes one across Horton Creek, and in approximately two-tenths of a mile, on the right you can observe the property that was once known as the Charles Farm.(11) Hemingway had good friends who summered here, and he used this land as the setting for "The Three Day Blow" and a major scene in "Summer People." Follow along the property for three-tenths of a mile to Pincherry Road. Turn right (north) on Pincherry Road, proceed for just under two miles, and watch on your right (east) for a small sign marking the Little Traverse Conservancy's Schulz Nature Preserve. There is no parking area here, but there is room for one or two vehicles to pull off the road. A web of well brushed out walking trails takes one through second growth forest that is representative of the northern Michigan woods Hemingway roamed as a boy and a young man. If you continue on the trails that descend to the east, you will come to Horton Creek in a secluded area that is reminiscent of some of the country Hemingway described in "Big Two-Hearted River."
  9. Horton Creek access #2 From the Schulz Preserve, continue north on Pincherry Road for seven- tenths of a mile and turn right (east) on Church Road for three-tenths of a mile to Horton Creek. Just before you reach the creek, on your left you will see a sign identifying the Little Traverse Conservancy's Horton Creek Nature Preserve. Parking is available on both sides of the road near the creek crossing. Whether you look upstream or downstream, the creek and terrain are very reminiscent of the country Hemingway and two friends encountered along the east Branch of the Upper Peninsula's Fox River during the 1919 camping trip that inspired "Big Two-Hearted River."

WALLOON LAKE

  1. Public access and boat launch on Sumner Road-Go southeast of Horton Bay on the Charlevoix-Boyne City Rd. for approximately one mile; turn left (due east) on Sumner Rd. and follow it to the end. This site offers a panoramic view of Walloon Lake. In Hemingway's "Wedding Day," it is the spot from which Nick Adams and his new bride Helen begin their honeymoon by rowing across the lake to the cottage where they will be staying-just as Hemingway and Hadley Richardson did after their wedding.(12)
  2. Longfield Farm, where Grace Hall Hemingway had a cottage/studio and the family had a sizeable garden, lay just to the southeast of this public access. The dwelling remains, but rests on inaccessible private property.(13)
  3. Windemere, the Hemingway family cottage-On Lake Grove Road. Recently remodeled and enlarged, this is now a year-round home on private property. Please do not intrude! The original cottage is a prominent part of Hemingway's "The Doctor and the Doctor's Wife," "Ten Indians," "The Indians Moved Away," and "The Last Good Country," and is also used in "Wedding Day" and "On Writing."(14)
  4. The "Indian Camp" -- Located on the north side of Indian Garden Road at its junction with Resort Pike Road near Walloon Lake. Two parcels of separately owned wooded property encompass the area that once held at least one, and perhaps a second, Indian camp. Hemingway drew on this area in creating the setting for his story "Indian Camp." This is private property; do not trespass. (15)
  5. The Bacon Farm-a large parcel of land that is now mostly wooded and is framed by Lake Grove Rd. on the south and Resort Pike Rd. on the east. The Hemingway family acquired their Walloon Lake property from the Bacons, and the families remained good friends. Ernest used the Bacon farm extensively in "Ten Indians," "Fathers and Sons" and "The Indians Moved Away." Its terrain and buildings also appear to be utilized in "The Last Good Country." Again, this is private property.(16)

PETOSKEY

  1. Little Traverse Historical Museum-Off Lake Street near the Municipal Marina Built by the Chicago and West Michigan Railroad in 1892, this building later served as the main area station of the Pere Marquette Railroad, which Hemingway refers to in "The Indians Moved Away" and his high school story, "Sepi Jingan."(17) The station was converted to a museum in the 1960s, and houses a permanent exhibit-and other materials-on Hemingway.
  2. Penn Plaza Station-Bay and Lewis Streets (now an office complex) An important station on the Grand Rapids and Indiana Railroad, this depot was rebuilt with brick in 1899 and became part of the Pennsylvania Railroad in 1920.(18) The Hemingway family passed through the station area on the "dummy" trains which carried them from Harbor Springs to their summer cottage on Walloon Lake.(19) When he was living in Petoskey during the winter of 1919-20, Ernest may have walked to the station to look at the train schedules and dream of trips he might take.(20) This station is the likely model for the train station in Hemingway's The Torrents of Spring, a parody set in the Petoskey area.
  3. The Perry Hotel-Corner of Bay and Lewis Streets Built in 1899, this is the last of the original resort hotels in Petoskey. Hemingway stayed here in 1916 after a hiking and camping trip in northwest lower Michigan with his friend Lewis Clarahan.(21) Beginning in 1990, the Perry Hotel served as headquarters for an annual "Hemingway Weekend" sponsored by the Michigan Hemingway Society.
  4. Jesperson's Restaurant-312 Howard Street. Established in 1903, this Petoskey favorite is noted for its home-style cooking and delicious pies.(22) Jesperson's was said to be a favorite hangout of Hemingway and his Petoskey friend Dutch Pailthorp.
  5. The Flatiron Building-313 Howard Street. This building was once home to McCarthy's Barber Shop, where the young Hemingway may have gone for a shave or haircut, but definitely enjoyed the banter of the patrons.(23)
  6. The City Park Grill-432 East Lake Street A Petoskey landmark that was constructed in 1879. Hemingway is reported to have enjoyed playing billiards here and watching the bare-knuckle boxing matches that were held in the nearby park during the warm months.(24)
  7. The Harold Grant Building-210 Howard Street. In the early 1900's this building was home to the New Braun Hotel and Restaurant, which appears to have been the model for "Brown's Beanery: Best by Test" in The Torrents of Spring.(25)
  8. The Carnegie Building--451 East Mitchell Street. For many years this building was the location of the Petoskey Public Library, but now it archives special collections and serves a center for community activities. The original Library was a favorite haunt of Hemingway's when he was living in Petoskey during the winter of 1919-20. In December of 1919 he spoke here to the Ladies Aid Society about his experiences in World War I (26)
  9. Potter's Rooming House-602 E. State Street Hemingway rented an upstairs room here during the winter of 1919-20 and worked hard--but without success--at writing fiction.(27)

BAY VIEW

1. Evelyn Hall -- on the campus of the Bay View Conservatory. During the winter of 1919-1920, Hemingway found his writing efforts were sometimes interrupted too much by well-meaning friends. To guarantee his privacy, he is reported to have occasionally "escaped" to a small room (equipped with a wood burning stove) in Evelyn Hall, a women's dormatory that was unoccupied during the winter.(28)

HARBOR SPRINGS

  1. Harbor Springs Train Station-On W. Bay Street near the Municipal Marina When the Hemingway family came north from Chicago by steamship to spend the summer at Windemere cottage, they disembarked in Harbor Springs and transferred their luggage and other belongings to the nearby train station, where it was loaded on a "dummy" train to begin the journey to Petoskey and Walloon Lake Village.(29)

NOTES

  1. Tom LaBelle, "A Modern Day Look at Hemingway's Old West State Haunts," Wonderland:The West Michigan Magazine 21 July 1968.
  2. Jay Oliver, "The Story of Prudence Boulton and Other Indians in the Hemingway Stories: A 1988 Interview with Ottawa Historian Jay Oliver." James Vol Hartwell 3 April 1988.
  3. "The Venerable Horton Bay General Store," The Horton Bay Gazette June 1994.
  4. James Vol Hartwell, A History of the Red Fox Inn (Horton Bay, Mich.: 1999) 7.
  5. John Kotesky, "He Remembers Hemingway as 'Polite Kid'." Interview. Petoskey News Review. 21 August 1972.
  6. William H. Ohle, How It Was in Horton Bay (Horton Bay, Mich.: 1969) 53.
  7. Ohle 104.
  8. Ohle 108.
  9. Constance Cappel, Hemingway in Michigan (Petoskey, Mich.: Little Traverse Historical Society, 1999) 111-12, 115, 120.
  10. Carlos Baker, Ernest Hemingway: A Life Story. (New York: Charles Scribners Sons, 1969) 25, 30.
  11. Ohle 104.
  12. Jan Nagel, "They Remember Hemingway," Inside 2 July 1979:5.
  13. Ken Marek, "'Redtop' at Longfield Farm Proves Fascinating Tour Stop," Michigan Hemingway Society Newsletter Winter 2004-05:3.
  14. Cappel 7.
  15. Cappel 46.
  16. Cappel 85.
  17. Petoskey's Colorful Past: A Historical Sketch of the City. (Petoskey, Mich.: Little Traverse Bay Historic Festival Committee: n.d) 29. Also see Baker 13.
  18. Petoskey's Colorful Past 22.
  19. John M. Niehaus, "Our Own Rail Era of 'Dummy Trains'," North Country Summer Life 12-18 August 1977: 4. Also see Baker 1.
  20. Cappel 152-53.
  21. Jack Jobst, "Gone Fishin'," Michigan History Magazine November/December 1995: 49.
  22. Mike Michaelson, "Adventuring in Hemingway's Michigan," Great Lakes Magazine Fall 1972: 11.
  23. Brad Leech, Petoskey historian. Walking tour of Hemingway-related sites in Petoskey. 23 October 1993.
  24. Gerry Volgenau, "Echoes of Hemingway," Detroit Free Press 13 June 1999: G3-4.
  25. Cathryn Jarvis, "On Hemingway's Trail," Traverse, the Magazine October 1990: 39.
  26. Baker 66.
  27. Cappel 142-43.
  28. Candace Fitzsimons, Director of the Little Traverse Historical Museum. Personal interview. 22 July 1999. See also Volgenau 3.
  29. Ken Parker, "Hemingway Haunts: Tour His Colorful North," Traverse, the Magazine October 1983:22. See also Niehaus 4.
 


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